1966 F100 Build-PROJECT DISRUPTIVE

Below I am looking at the frame and how the Jag will fit Frame measures 33 3/8 at the old spring tower locations. Then goes out to 34" 1991 Jag IFS measures less than 33 with no alignment shims, Frame measures a heavy 5 3/4" From the top of the Jag crossmember to the bottom of the control arm busing measures less than 5 inches. Do you see a problem here? The upper rear bushings will hit the frame. First off with one side of the crossmember to see how this fits. This will not slide up between the rails because of the width, This is the front frame axle center With center marked I want to make a notch big enough to allow some adjustment before we weld this in solid. I put the tape on center at 2 1/4 and marked the end, then marked 5 1/4 on the rear. Started looking at the height. Marked out the area that I want to remove. 4 5/8 proved to be wrong. I later was cut to 4 1/4 for proper clearance Took the removed piece and tacke...

  Looking at getting the above finished product. I want to move the wheel forward in the front about 1 1/2 inches and lower the rear down just a little more  So we decided to go with a Jag front suspension and ditch the old I-Beams. The jag was the best choice for width, money, and for safety. I reinstalled the I-beams to get the true axle center line. The new XJS suspension from a 1991 Jaguar 12 cylinder A quick clean up and some support removal. The suspension will be welded in. The truck frame was braced from moving while I took the sawzall to the cross member The coil towers and supports will need about 8 rivets punched out still \\ The calipers are 4 piston are need a quick rebuild kit just to be safe.

Worked on the floor priming the cab box and locating and drilling the spot welds.

Soda Blasting left some light surface rust so I used some phosphoric acid to eat the rust. Worked out well. This stuff must be washed off with hot soapy water before painting.

Worked on the axle today and cleaned with phosphoric acid. Applied 2 coats of SPI epoxy primer. Looking back should have bought black primer!

 Started on the drivers side floor today. Got a rough idea on how much to cut out and did just that. My zip wheel, spot weld cutter and air chisel made easy work of removing the metal. The after market pan is like anything else ...just doesn't fit. We used some tech screws and some weight to get the pan sitting where it needed to. One trick in putting pans in.. You put some sand bags or block in the pan and go under the truck. Drill using an 1/8th in bit up through the cab support to locate the spot welds that you will need to make. This way all you do is remove the pan and drill your 1/4 inch or so holes in the pan. Now they are in position to plug weld. I may cheat and leave about an inch lap on the pan...love to but weld it but

I spent the last week cleaning the spots where the soda blasting did not get.  The gutter has some left over seam sealer that had to to picked out and wire wheeled. Unfortunately soda blasting does nothing to deep rust. It basically cleans it. I had to DA with 80 grit ,wire wheel and acid wash the rusty areas with Home Depot Prep and Etch by Kleenstrip. This is a phosphoric acid that eats out the rust and converts it to a hard paintable surface. It was very cold this morning and after 4 hours on the heat we rolled the cab outside for the first coat of epoxy. The cab took on a new look as the white epoxy went on. I had several questions about the epoxy so I called tech support for Southern Polyurethanes. They were supper helpful making sure that I was doing the epoxy properly. Then rolled it out for the second coat. I guess I will be making a plastic paint booth inside the garage...getting too cold to paint outside.